Stiles and rails joints9/2/2023 ![]() ![]() Doors with loose joints can sometimes be repaired in place, but for best results remove the door and work on a supported surface. Open joints usually appear at the top of the door first, but if left unattended will continue to effect other parts of the door. Gaps that appear between the rails and stiles can result from the weight of the door, poor construction, seasonal conditions, or all three. The joints that hold them together are formed by tenons that jut out of the rails and into the stiles. Old doors are made out of vertical stiles and horizontal rails that hold two, four, or more recessed panels in place. Plane as minimally as possible, and consider adding compressible weather stripping along the planed edge to help the door close tightly when colder weather returns. The same repairs work for loose bottom hinges, too.Ī door that scrapes the floor or won’t fully close at the top in hot, humid weather can be planed, but there is a downside: once the door shrinks when cold weather returns, there may be a gap at the plane edge-a major consideration for exterior doors in cold climates. The screw heads should be small enough to fit flush with the hinges. Since most jambs are only ¾” thick, be sure to use screws slightly less long. Once that’s cured, re-drill pilot holes for new screws. If the hinge is still loose, you’ll need to remove the door, drill out the old screw holes in the jamb, and then patch them with a wood-repair filler ( Abatron’s WoodEpox is one brand). If that’s the case, secure the leaf of the hinge that makes contact with the door with longer screws-provided the stile is solid wood. If that doesn’t work, the screw holes are probably stripped. If the hinge moves, it may be loose enough to cause the door to bind along the side or scrape the floor at the bottom. To check, partially open the door and lift up on the knob while pushing the door up toward the jamb. Hinges usually work loose at the top of the door. ![]() To remove a stile, first remove the pegs that hold it to the tenon on the rail using a pin punch that’s smaller than the peg. If not, there may be an additional problem. Try the door and see whether that’s resolved the problem. To remove paint, scrape away excess layers, where the door rubs, with a scraper, or use or eco-friendly paint remover. BindingĪ door that sticks or binds at the top, on one side or the other, or along the bottom may be suffering from excessive paint buildup, loose or poorly installed hinges, or seasonal swelling. Once you’ve identified one or more sticking points, consider these options for returning the door to optimum condition. Ideally, there should be a consistent gap of about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch between the door and jamb on all sides. To figure out why the door won’t operate properly, open and close it a few times. Resist the urge to cut or plane any portion of the door, and make repairs that are both strong and that permit the door to continue to shrink and swell with seasonal changes. Like other historic elements in the house, treat the door with respect. There should be a narrow, consistent gap between the door and jamb on all sides. Causes for binding and sticking include paint buildup, seasonal expansion and contraction, loose hinges, or loosening of the joints between stiles and rails.Īn 18th-century, four-panel door has a slight sag at the top and a notable gap near the bottom, indicating it may have suffered ill-advised repairs in the past. The older the house, the more likely it is that at least one door will bind, scrape the floor, or refuse to fully close. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases made through affiliate links. ![]()
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